講座1オーガニック ①
「なぜ有機小麦は増やす必要があるの?」
志賀勝栄さんからの”エール”
「この現実をなんとか変えないといけない」。 農薬や化学肥料に疑問を持っているという、シニフィアン シニフィエの志賀勝栄シェフが、 有機農業の専門家である澤登早苗先生にいろいろ訊ねました。 日本で有機認証をとった麦や米は0.1%でしかないという現実をどうやったら変えていけるのか? 第1回は志賀シェフから、有機に興味がある人、食べ物の作り手や生産者に送るエールです。
志賀勝栄(しがかつえい)
「 Signifiant Signifié(シニフィアン シニフィエ)」シェフ。 低温長時間発酵のパイオニア。熟練された技術と豊かな想像力で新しいパンの世界を繰り広げる。 1955年7月19日 新潟県・松之山生まれ 哲学者を目指すも22歳でパンの世界へ。(株)アートコーヒーを皮切りに、「カフェ・アルトファゴス」、「パティスリー・ペルティエ」「ユーハイム・ディー・マイスター丸ビル店」「フォートナム・アンド・メイソン」のシェフを歴任、2006年10月に「シニフィアン シニフィエ」オープン。 著書に『酵母から考えるパンづくり』(柴田書店)、『パンの世界 基本から最前線まで 』(講談社選書メチエ)、『ホームベーカリーでつくるシニフィアン シニフィエの高加水パン&ドイツパン』(毎日コミュニケーションズ)、『パンと料理 おいしく食べる最高の組み合わせ』(家の光協会)、『シニフィアン シニフィエのスイーツブレッド』(飛鳥新社)など。
Signifiant Signifié(シニフィアン シニフィエ)
2006年オープン。 「唯一無二」「医食同源」をコンセプトに掲げる。 国産小麦や、フランス産オーガニック小麦、平飼い卵や低温殺菌牛乳などおいしい素材を使用。 時間をかけて発酵をとり、小麦の旨味を引き出す。 発酵によってできた気泡は潰さずにパンへと風味を持ち越す。 高加水によって口溶けよく、消化のいいパンを作る。 ルクセンブルク製(ハイン社製)の高性能の窯を使い、大きく焼くことで、小麦の風味を最大限に引き出す。 バゲット、パン ド ミ、カンパーニュ、ライ麦パンなど、伝統的なパンに立脚しながらも、革命的な新技術によって、それまでのパンの地平を大きく超えてきた伝説的一軒。 ●世田谷本店
〒154-0004 世田谷区太子堂1-1-11
電話 03-6805-5346 通常時の営業時間
平日 11:00〜17:00
土日祝 11:00〜18:00 定休日 不定休 ●S+(GINZA SIX)
〒104-0061 東京都中央区銀座6丁目10-1GINZA SIX B2F
電話 03-6264-5506 通常時の営業時間
10:30~20:30(B2F~5F ショップ) *営業時間・定休日はGINZA SIX に準じる。 公式サイト Facebook Instagram
なにかを変えないといけないんじゃないか
志賀さんが最近気になるのは、農産物に使われる農薬や化学肥料の問題。
「化学肥料や農薬に対する疑問がずっとありまして。 そもそも僕、新潟の兼業農家の生まれで、ほぼ自給自足の生活だったんですね。 ですから当然、ほとんどの野菜は、堆肥で作る。 農薬はもったいないんで使えないですし、化学肥料も高いから使えない(笑)。 そういうものをずっと、ちっちゃいころから食べてきた」
そのせいか、志賀さんは極めて頑健。 今年で67歳になるが衰えも見せず、厨房に立ち続けている。
「僕のまわりではアレルギーの人がすごく多い。 僕、比較的少ないんですね。 そういう実際の経験も含めて、やはり食生活が、なにかまちがっているのではないかと。 なにかを変えないと、このままではいけないんじゃないかなと、思っていますね」
では、なにから変えていくのか。 結論は出たという。
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